The subject of pseudo-natural cosmetics has been addressed many times in the past months.A study by the Hamburg Consumer Advice Centre had already created a stir at the beginning of the year.

The consumer protectors denounced brands that were positioned as natural cosmetics, but didn’t live up to their claims. Organizations like the Organic Consumers Association in the United States also spoke up and complained about “fake organic cosmetics”.

This issue is now also tackled in a study by the British market researcher Organic Monitor and the German test magazine Öko-Test in its August issue. Both come to the conclusion that certified products usually contain what the consumer expects of natural cosmetics.

Certified natural cosmetics with a label are trustworthy

Greenwashing is no new phenomenon in cosmetics. The terms nature and natural often turn out to be questionable. Legally, there is no provision for taking action against false information on cream pots and shampoo bottles, because – in contrast to food – no legal standards exist for natural cosmetics.

Nevertheless, consumers can obtain guidance by looking for one of the international certification labels.These private standards have been developed in Germany, France, Great Britain, Italy and the USA (e.g. BDIH, Ecocert, ICEA, Natrue, NSF/ USA, Soil Association) and the corresponding label is issued after certification. Products bearing this label are trustworthy, as also agreed among critics.

Green cosmetics without labels often pseudo

The German product testing magazine Öko-Test examined 34 cosmetic products that claim to be “green” but dispense with certification. The spectrum ranged from The Body Shop, L´Occitane and Yves Rocher to products from Schwarzkopf & Henkel and Garnier L´Oréal.Öko-Test found between 15% and 60% synthetic ingredients in the articles tested and states: “There’s a tremendous amount of greenwashing going on.” The list of defects found includes the use of questionable chemical preservatives like chlorphenesin or sodium salicylate, or problematic PEGs and PEG derivatives that are not allowed in genuine natural cosmetics.

In addition, Öko-Test complains about synthetic dyes and fragrances, and synthetic substances that are controversial or questionable. Examples of these are substances that can separate formaldehyde, which is suspected of causing cancer. Öko-Test also draws attention to a grey area: Some substances for cosmetics, such as glycerine, can be produced from both plants and mineral oil. Only the certification labels for genuine natural cosmetics guarantee the vegetable origin.

Upshot of the test: Products that advertise with vegetable and natural ingredients but use problematic chemical substances mislead consumers, but it is difficult to take action against such deception. For example, the Hamburg Consumer Advice Centre’s attempt to admonish large conventional manufacturers for deception was not successful.

Study determines widely differing levels of naturalness

Organic Monitor's current study “Technical Insights: Natural & Organic Cosmetics Brand Assessment” examines more than 50 international brands. These were rated according to their naturalness as determined by an analysis of ingredients and formulations. Certified organic cosmetics achieved the highest naturalness rating (9-10), followed by pure natural cosmetics (5-7), semi-natural (3), naturally inspired cosmetics two points and conventional cosmetics only one point.

The study established a noticeable discrepancy between the marketing claims (100% natural) and the low level of naturalness in the formulations, and emphasizes the importance of certification, which also creates guidelines for the industry. Judi Beerling of Organic Monitor points out the correlation between certification and a high level of naturalness.

In many cases, natural cosmetic brands from the USA and Europe achieve better ratings than comparable products from Asia and Latin America, according to Organic Monitor. The new (frequently certified) natural cosmetic brands from multinational cosmetic concerns hold good positions in the ranking. The authors of the study encouraged companies to adopt the path of certification, as the standards provide a clear framework for raw material purchasing and product development and clear guidance for the consumer, which contributes to building confidence.

The abundance of labels and their partly different requirements are confusing for non-experts, so that consumer protectors, experts and even politicians are calling for a universal marking system backed by appropriate legislation.

2011.8.16                               www.organicmonitor.com